Eat

Confiteria Bristol

Confiteria Bristol

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A boy and a girl walk on via Esmeralda. At the end of February, though the summer is about to end, the air in Buenos Aires is still torrid. They have just arrived and today they have no destination. The small Confitería Bristol is the address they are not looking for. The girl orders two vegetarian empanadas, and the boy three with meat, with no hesitations. In front of the convex windows of the confectioner’s that since 1952 lives on the domestic rituals of the local upper middle class, they speak with the man at the counter – a Peruvian who learnt the trade as a boy – and with a distinguished woman whom the confectioner introduces promptly as a regular customer and granddaughter of President Avellaneda. These delicious turnovers of crumbly wavy pastry – the girl will learn to mould them with greater and greater skill – are the main course of an improvised picnic on a bench in the small park in front of the Palacio de Relaciones Internacionales. She bites them slowly, while he wolfs them and smiles with eyes wide open, as he did when he was caught doing some prank as a child. Buenos Aires was his world back then; now it is the city where he goes back and takes his new love.

La Bamba de Areco

La Bamba de Areco

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Only the pampas’ prairie beyond Buenos Aires’ north-western suburbs can silence the enthusiasm that Big Sur glaciers stirred in us. We have just left them. It is a summer Sunday; the wind pampers the trees’ foliage with deep hypnotic caresses. At the end of a dirt road, a young gaucho awaits us near the gate, as sculpturesque and fierce as the horse he controls with minimal moves. We follow him up to the entrance of a purple residence edged in white, along an intimate procession that cuts in half the neat land at sunset. Everything in this maternal rural landscape seems to be cautiously dancing with ancestral moves. The grass is greener, and the sky is airier and higher. This Land has become, also for us, a promise of happiness…

Oviedo

Oviedo

Buenos Aires, Argentina

It is summer in Buenos Aires; lunch regulars start sitting down in Oviedo’s radiant dining room and greet with familiarity the waiters, busy with the last preparations. We get quickly used to ceremonious gestures, faint pleasantries, courtesy, and whispered conversations over spotless tablecloths. A classic world with no imperfections, where a small dose of peculiarity is allowed on the big canvases hanging on the walls, and on the dishes. The chefs’ knowledge and inspiration get to the tables as polished compositions, sometimes geometrical, sometimes more fluid. Every course is a variety of unusual, clear flavours, whose balance surprises you at every bite. A character that takes shape between sober creativity and tradition, between eternal and unconventional.

Big Sur

Big Sur

Buenos Aires, Argentina

“The question I will try to answer is, ‘Why do men wander rather than sit still?’” – wrote Bruce Chatwin to Tom Maschler once. I travel looking for what I know and for what I still don’t. I am certainly looking for my first Paris, the prows where I hid as a child, the luxury palmchat nests and the Sardinian clouds, Hudson River when it leaves behind the last New York City blocks of flats, and the Caribbean after Cape Town…

Proper

Proper

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Some inclinations are already evident when you are young. Like Heinrich Harrer’s (Hüttenberg, 6 July 1912 – Friesach, 7 January 2006), who as a boy won the World Student Championship in downhill skiing and as a grownup, on the other side of the world, after perilous adventures and misfortunes, became master and staunch friend of the fourteenth Dalai Lama, as per his bestseller ‘Seven years in Tibet’.

Sakeya

Sakeya

Milan, Italy

‘No moon, no blossom. Just me drinking sake, totally alone.’ Matsuo Bashō, 1689. Oku no Hosomichi (‘The Narrow Road to the Interior’) is one of the most important classic books of the Japanese literature. This work by poet Matsuo Bashō is a travelogue written both in prose and verses during a long and perilous walk, a five-month pilgrimage, more than two thousand kilometres long, from the modern Tokyo to the Japanese hinterland. It was the end of the eighteenth century. The master’s itinerary became the opportunity for many to start their own Japanese journey…

Ditta Artigianale

Ditta Artigianale

Florence, Italy

Its shrubs can be some meters high and they produce white fragrant flowers and red fruits. In Yemen and in Ethiopia, a legend says that the stimulating properties of coffee were discovered by observing goats, which ate it and were inebriated by it. A shepherd told a monk. A decoction of toasted coffee beans kept the monk awake, allowing him to pray all night long. The legend spread through countless versions and alterations, and the first cup of coffee arrived from the East to Europe and to the whole world. Ancient and new enterprises were founded on this aromatic and strengthening drink. Making it has become a ritual, and drinking it, too…

Rocco

Rocco

Rome, Italy

At Rocco’s we put our researches on hold, stop writing, and avoid investigating the history of a place and a menu that are perfectly spontaneous and graceful. As when you meet the ladylike face of a little girl. We take note of all that goodness and promise and do not ask anything more. A big squared blackboard displays season ingredients and goliardic recipes (we are in Rome) made with respect, both written in a model-student writing. Since it is spring, we order stewed peas, white onions au gratin, soft eggs with asparagus, panned chicory, sour black cherry and ricotta tart…

North Branch Inn

North Branch Inn

Catskills, Usa

Looking out from the Queen Room, in the softened light of a cloudless Saturday, you can experience the feeling of waking up in the suspended atmosphere of a secluded American province. As if the charm of a silent North American village was not a memorable morning by itself, imagine going down the creaky wooden stairs of the Post Office House, crossing the quiet North Branch Road, breathing fresh air, and entering the Main Inn House. Last night you sipped cider at the counter, then had a substantial late dinner and played bowling. Imagine filling a mug with freshly roasted coffee, a dish with apple and cinnamon tarts, and a bowl with granola and full-bodied farm milk. The smell of burned wood, of an outdoor Saturday, of woods. God bless America.

Totem Flaine

Totem Flaine

Flaine, France

This story does not begin on a mid-January Friday, while we gather our mountain clothes, boots, maps, two old issues of Meridiani and a guidebook into our tartan bag. It starts on the day Éric Boissonnas – a visionary entrepreneur – and Gérard Chervaz – an architect – discover a plot of plain protected by the spotless faces of Grand Massif, in Haute-Savoie. Thanks to that love at first sight, and to the urban project Éric and his wife Sylvie – art and music lovers – carried out in the following years with architect Marcel Breuer, today we follow at a walking pace the whims of a D106 covered with snow, slowly enter Flaine, and leave our luggage at the reception desk of Totem, the only hotel in town…

Trempeskill Country Store

Trempeskill Country Store

Catskills, Usa

Once upon a time, Candy and Edchin – a teacher and an engineer respectively – lived in Long Island. They arrived in Andes, NY, by chance, and became fond of the town. Therefore, when they found out that the Gas Station business was for sale, they decided that this would be a nice place to live. We, too, arrived in Andes by chance and, thanks to them, became immediately fond of the town, of their love story and of their peculiar gas station/diner/shop. Get here hungry and rely on Candy. She will disappear into the kitchen and come back with a giant version of your toasted sandwich. You will wolf it down sitting at the one informal table of the shop, among the shelves of vintage toys and preserves.

Bar da Praia

Bar da Praia

Alentejo, Portugal

In Odeceixe beach you will learn that being a surfer means being part of a minority religion. You will discover that standing apart and watching their daily liturgies you can enjoy a sheer spectacle and realize that each place our friends in Casa da Dinà suggested we should visit are worth the long journey necessary to reach them. Bar da Praia, folk and eclectic eatery, with a view on the ocean.

Wisefish Poké

Wisefish Poké

New York, USA

If you happen to be in New York and you, too, are delighted by, and vaguely dependent on, the fresh spiced taste of poke, have at least one meal at Wisefish. A laid-back diner based on a deep friendship, on an equally deep love for this Hawaiian dish, and on the wish to share it with us.

The Wild Son

The Wild Son

New York, USA

​When a journey makes us sedentary, we like to experiment kind of a minor routine. Every morning in Manhattan, we reach the High Line and run northward along glossy terraces’ profiles, multicoloured building sites and trails of lively traffic. We go back to Jane and out again, with wet hair and a grumbling stomach, towards our table at The Wild Son. The first one on the left, the brightest one. We order either a bowl of Greek yogurt, granola, flaxseeds, pollen and coconut, or buckwheat pancakes with wildflower honey and curcuma butter, a generous portion even when you share it. Actually, its delicious recipes, creative atmosphere and accurate aesthetics make The Wild Son one of the addresses we would be proud to be real regulars of, if only it were in our hometown.

Arcade Bakery

Arcade Bakery

New York, USA

Today at breakfast you disappear behind the glass door of a lobby in Church Street, order a soft Danish pastry with raisins and an Americano, then slowly enjoy them while watching the coming and going in the building’s corridor. You will not feel like you are exaggerating when you define this odd bakery in Tribeca a bizarre and ingenious work.

1 of 19
12345»