"Argentina"

La Bamba de Areco

La Bamba de Areco

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Only the pampas’ prairie beyond Buenos Aires’ north-western suburbs can silence the enthusiasm that Big Sur glaciers stirred in us. We have just left them. It is a summer Sunday; the wind pampers the trees’ foliage with deep hypnotic caresses. At the end of a dirt road, a young gaucho awaits us near the gate, as sculpturesque and fierce as the horse he controls with minimal moves. We follow him up to the entrance of a purple residence edged in white, along an intimate procession that cuts in half the neat land at sunset. Everything in this maternal rural landscape seems to be cautiously dancing with ancestral moves. The grass is greener, and the sky is airier and higher. This Land has become, also for us, a promise of happiness…

Hub Porteño

Hub Porteño

Buenos Aires, Argentina

‘All happy mornings resemble one another’ – Here I am, Jonathan Safran Foer. We woke up at Hub Porteño with a discreet and innocent jolliness, which even the passing rain drumming on the veranda could not disperse. The wall garden at our back, we sat on the striped sofa and sipped coffee in decorated china, while waiting for our daily medialunas to come out of the oven, stately and fragrant. The historical neighbourhood families resumed their classic routine while the sun dried the smaller puddles. In our spare time, we exercised our idea of luxury: we idled on the roof terrace, a private Eden among building tops, lingered in the big marble bathtub and, when snack time came, treated ourselves to a portion of homemade cake and a mate, while resuming that book about enchanted estancias.

Oviedo

Oviedo

Buenos Aires, Argentina

It is summer in Buenos Aires; lunch regulars start sitting down in Oviedo’s radiant dining room and greet with familiarity the waiters, busy with the last preparations. We get quickly used to ceremonious gestures, faint pleasantries, courtesy, and whispered conversations over spotless tablecloths. A classic world with no imperfections, where a small dose of peculiarity is allowed on the big canvases hanging on the walls, and on the dishes. The chefs’ knowledge and inspiration get to the tables as polished compositions, sometimes geometrical, sometimes more fluid. Every course is a variety of unusual, clear flavours, whose balance surprises you at every bite. A character that takes shape between sober creativity and tradition, between eternal and unconventional.

Big Sur

Big Sur

Buenos Aires, Argentina

“The question I will try to answer is, ‘Why do men wander rather than sit still?’” – wrote Bruce Chatwin to Tom Maschler once. I travel looking for what I know and for what I still don’t. I am certainly looking for my first Paris, the prows where I hid as a child, the luxury palmchat nests and the Sardinian clouds, Hudson River when it leaves behind the last New York City blocks of flats, and the Caribbean after Cape Town…

Proper

Proper

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Some inclinations are already evident when you are young. Like Heinrich Harrer’s (Hüttenberg, 6 July 1912 – Friesach, 7 January 2006), who as a boy won the World Student Championship in downhill skiing and as a grownup, on the other side of the world, after perilous adventures and misfortunes, became master and staunch friend of the fourteenth Dalai Lama, as per his bestseller ‘Seven years in Tibet’.

IN ONE BREATH

IN ONE BREATH

MINI Adventure Trip 2015, Argentina

The crackling sound of the wheels on the dirt road to Antofagasta de la Sierra. The earth on our bonnet, onto which we wrote like kids, in the Valle de la luna. The wind whistling against our half-closed window on our way to Tolar Grande. The black volcano crust crumbling against ochre sand dunes. The colour shades of Andean rocks. Cactus flowers, wind-ruffled bushes, and every grazing llama. The pure white of Salar de Antofalla, and the pure blue over 4800 metres, which take your breath away. Gauchos riding on the edge of landscapes wider than one can imagine. Nature’s absolute beauty makes you reconsider the concept of beauty itself…

STAFF PICKS

STAFF PICKS

by Luca De Santis

Luca loves traveling to discover wonders. He loves to give space to diversity. Luca loves to stay. He loves everything that becomes ritual and is handed down from father to son. (Luca, Meraviglia Paper Creative Director is also art director, photographer and video maker).

Estancia Candelaria del Monte

Estancia Candelaria del Monte

The Pampas, Argentina

Driving towards San Miguel del Monte, just outside Buenos Aires is like trying to get out of Milan on a Friday night driving on the multiple-lane main road packed with cars that are stuck or barely moving forward. For an Italian, the landscape is not dissimilar from the countryside of the Emilia region. You can feel tired and disappointed that you are not in a completely unspoiled land…

Closer to the Sky

Closer to the Sky

Buenos Aires and Salta, Argentina

When it’s our December, it’s summer in the Australian hemisphere and Buenos Aires smells of blue Jacaranda. It’s a sweet fragrance that permeates the whole city, you can’t miss it. We only remember details of the places we visit, what’s memorable about Argentina is its inebriating smell. It’s in the city, in the countryside, up to the most remote corner of its immense land…

El Obrero

El Obrero

Buenos Aires, Argentina

When we asked an Argentinian, he told us that La Boca is not in the outskirts of Buenos Aires and yet when we arrived at El Ombrero we felt as we’d come to the end of the city. The only way to get to this residential street, dimly lighted by a few streetlamps, is by taxi and you need to know the full address. At the entrance, a police officer checks everyone on the way in and out. Fried calamari, grilled sausage and mashed potatoes: the food is abundant, frugal, tasty and cheap.

CRAFT HOTEL

CRAFT HOTEL

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Set in the neighborhood of Palermo in Buenos Aires, the Craft Hotel is a hip spot with simple furniture and bright colour walls, starting from the enamel red facade.

Finca Valentina

Finca Valentina

Salta, Argentina

Salta is not the attracting city that many book-guides describe. However, it’s the heart of a land of infinite beauty. It’s the ideal stop from where to set off in different directions. Finca Valentina is a divine shelter; it’s the house to come back to. Fabrizio and Valentina welcome you as their family in their beautiful and sophisticated casale where intimacy and quiet reign. Early in the morning, you wake up to a light and persistent bird singing. A breakfast of vanilla milk and crunchy muesli, scones, freshly baked pastry and spreadable dulce de leche awaits you on beautifully embroidered linen tablecloths. The delicious food is wisely prepared by female Argentinian hands but inspired to the Italian culinary tradition. At dinner, you talk about Puna and the martial landscapes that some still have impressed in their eyes and others know they will come back to see again.